Southern Exposure
There is nothing like a trip south to shake out the cobwebs and open new doors, and that is exactly how it felt as I made my way that direction, recently, with a friend. After an overnight stop at another friend’s organic farm in the sleepy agriculture town of Buelton (think the film, Sideways) we kept going–two women with a plan. Our destination was Laguna Beach, the small seaside village with bohemian roots in vast Orange County, where my grandparents lived back in the thirties, and where I was scheduled to give a talk at Latitude 33, a fabulous, eclectic bookstore in downtown.
It had taken me this long to come full circle, follow my own research back to where my grandparents’ story began, and from what My Nepenthe stemmed. No doubt it has changed some, become more grounded in the So cal life of sun and glory, but all in all its artistic roots seem to be in tact. The views were absolutely gorgeous at every turn; a walk along the beach one evening, up and over the promenade with a picture-perfect vista dotted with palms, seemed to vanquish any second thoughts about a place that has become as much a tourist trap on a sunny day as any other coastal California town.
Even so, tucked between newly constructed mansions on the cliffs, were the threads of another time, rustic, offbeat housing and a creative community still holding its own. Frankly I was happy and it felt like home–who knew there would be so many connections? Happy to have a second cousin who lives nearby take me to lunch in the sweet town of San Juan Capistrano, where my grandparents married, and who helped fill in so many gaps to their story. Another friend, and local doctor, hosted the weekend, even throwing a party for us that Sunday. How lovely it was to drink wine, talk story, and eat full-fat cheese, mid-day, on a run-down but artsy, sunny deck overlooking the sea. His private Nepenthe, and my kind of place.
In some ways my gestalt is more comfortable in that stretch of California–the sunny outlook on life, the relaxed almost laissez faire lifestyle, the Spanish style homes, tropical colors, and latin inspired food. Let alone the ocean, something I pine for on a daily basis.
That brings me to Santa Barbara, a beach town where I always make a stop, if nothing more than to go to La Super-Rica Taqueria on Milpas St., pictured above, Julia Child’s favorite Mexican restaurant and mine too. The food is no frills Mexican. Don’t expect chips and salsa, or sour cream on your taco–but fresh handmade tortillas, yes, and authentic dishes like chiles rajas (strips of fire-roasted pasilla chiles w/ cheese and herbs) served on paper plates. Order off a blackboard, bring cash, and taste the heart of one southern city’s food scene.
Back home this week, to morning sound of birds, children and blue skies–a steep hike in the hills above Berkeley with a writer pal reminded me why I live here and what I’m doing. Overall, I’m feeling a little less dusty, and a wee bit more clear.
I love Super-Rica. It’s great. Always make a point to go there when I’m in Santa Barbara. A very cool very unpretentious spot. But I have a hard time imaging Julia Child there..but on the other hand – it’s not so hard to see her at the counter, looking at board, and ordering something unique.
Super-Rica keeps popping up in conversations, yet I have never been there. My good friend and old ski patrolling buddy, now turned pro-photographer told me of that spot a year or so ago. Greg and I were on a 3 week road trip with the kiddos and he told us that we simply had to stop there. Well, we just weren’t at the right place at the right time to stop off in SB, but next time we have all the more reason to go there now. Sounds like it really is a place not to be missed… or untasted.
I love Super-Rica at anytime of the day!!!!
What a lovely southern sojourn, and very needed, I’m sure. You really locked us into a very different culture than the artistic untamed wildness of Big Sur. Both are valid and wonderful.
Thanks for writing this, and keep on writing.
What’s next on the horizon??
oxoxo Mary
Nepenthe- the lovely bar/restaurant with the spectacular view overlooking the beach and ocean 800-feet below the cliffs at Big Sur is a gem, a national treasure. I dined there many times over the years, on trips out to California and also while I lived in San Diego from 1988-98. Santa Barbara- and the cozy artist village of San Juan Capistrano (the “Juan” left out in the above article) are both beautiful places to visit to savor the southern California lifestyle of today…and yesteryear…like taking a drive up into the hills to see the famous “HOLLYWOOD” sign overlooking the valley below….My California experiences are wide and varied…from enjoying good friends and great food at the Old Town Mexican Cafe in Old Town San Diego- where they make fresh tortillas by hand literally right in front of you as you walk in the door, to chatting with Ingrid Croce- Jim Croce’s widow- at Croce’s Restaurant, one of the most popular spots to dine and people-watch in the Gaslamp District…and driving from Canada to Mexico and back, enjoying camping, hiking, backpacking and superb photography in Yosemite, Redwoods National Forest, Kings Canyon, Monterey and so many other spots….listening to the Modern Jazz Quartet, Dizzy Gillespie and Sonny Rollins all onstage at the world famous Monterey Jazz Festival…They all remain wonderful memories and will be with me until my final days….but California is still an enigma…a beautiful state with horrible problems….enormous talent in its workforce, spectacular scenery surrounded by encroaching problems of overdevelopment, pollution (drifting up the coast into U.S waters from Tijuana), a tidal wave of illegal immigration, gargantuan budget deficits, a business climate which is the opposite of sunny, causing tens of thousands of small businesses to leave the state due to exhorbitant taxes, overwhelming regulation and unheard of workers compensation rules and regulations and so much more….Add in the inevitable major earthquake which I as a petroleum geologist know will likely hit within the next 20 years and you have something which could be catastophic in its scope…I will always love California… and the times I spent there will be material for my next book…and likely many in the future….which…I know…someday…will be as bright as the sunshine along its beautiful coast…
Even before I read the post I was wondering, is this the Julia Child spot? We’re heading down south in July and will have to stop on the way back up. That and Nepenthe too! Hope to see you soon.
Here’s to the restorative power of the galpal road trip — and for nurturing a friendship while hiking one of the best of Berkeley’s butt-burning trails:)