The Poetry of Place: Nepenthe’s Unique Architecture
Photograph by Morley Baer, ©2009 by the Morley Baer Photography Trust, Santa Fe
As Bay area architect Henrik Bull told me last year during a phone interview, he has always said–”You can’t do a good building, without good clients.” And what better clients than my grandparents? In particularly my grandmother, Lolly Fassett, who had a mind of her own when it came to building things, and believed strongly in the aesthetics and poetry of place; in finding someone to translate her ideas and not merely design their own; someone who showed respect for materials, for the grand view, for the artistry and craft of building. She wanted someone who was as interested in engaging in the process with her (they had already interviewed several architects, none matching up); someone who would integrate form with surroundings, not over power it, and who sympathized with her dreams of creating an open-air restaurant, a place for people to come to forget their worldly cares, not just a roadside stand as my grandfather once aspired for. She found this in Rowan Maiden, a young, bright architect and former student of Frank Lloyd Wright, whom she met at a party on Huckleberry Hill (an artists enclave), in Monterey, in the late 40s. There was an immediate connection and they soon began working together to draw up plans. Original drawings showed an open-air restaurant, without windows, running the length of the wall facing south, though ultimately this was impossible, and so they settled for thick beams and walls of glass and a 100 foot bench stretching out to the patio, a semi-circular terrace (since expanded), meeting up with the hand built, brick fireplace–all of it using native and mostly local materials.
Rowan Maiden brought a studied skill and an artists eye to the collaboration. He spent several years at Taliesen (having been awarded a fellowship there in the late 30s), Frank Lloyd Wright’s school and home in Wisconsin (and sister program in Arizona), and became one of his best students. But as Henrik Bull pointed out, Wright’s students didn’t always develop a personality of their own, and in some cases just became mimics of his noted style. Maiden was different. Though there are imprints of Wright in Nepenthe at first glance, it is uniquely a Maiden design. “Nepenthe was unique and didn’t follow any particular style trends,” Bull told me, adding that he suspected my grandparents had a lot to do with the design themselves, relaying how good design doesn’t happen on its own–it’s built on trust between the client and the architect.
Rowan’s career, sadly, was short lived (he died at a young age in the late 1950′s, leaving a wife and 3 children–one of them, his daughter the late Romney Maiden Fennell, was my namesake) and his work somewhat forgotten over the years, though he designed many fine houses, several on the peninsula and in the bay area. Nepenthe remains his best known and revered project. Its design was featured in Arts and Architecture early on, as well as in Architectural Forum (with photos by renowned California photographer, Morley Baer), putting the restaurant on the map. Recently Maiden’s work and Nepenthe design, featured again in 2 books on California architecture, one by SF architect Pierluigi Serraino in his book NorCalMod: Icons of Northern California Modernism, placing Maiden’s designs and Nepenthe in the arc of the Modern movement.
I am so enjoying these posts, Nani, since Rita first made me aware of them when you started the blog. I was there in the early 70′s, first to open up the natural foods store for Ventana when they started up, and then working at Nepenthe for a while with the kitchen crew, then building rock walls and taking care of the garden areas with Jack Overholt. Spent a good bit of time down at Kim and John’s spot, along with Rita, and the Carvey’s, Mary Stewart, Ruth Stevens, et al.
I remember you well, but it’s unlikely you’d remember me – I was just one of many faces I’m sure. Looking forward to your book and wish I could be there for the celebration to imbibe once again the magic and mystery of that place, but Kansas City to Nepenthe is a wee bit too much of hike, in more ways than one! Much love, James.
Hi James
Not sure if I responded, but hi James–and thank you for taking the time to read my blog. It’s a bit of a learning process, so appreciate that you are enjoying it. The natural foods store at Ventana–that must have been down on the road, where it later turned into a deli then a bakery? There is much to discover and remember about that time in Big Sur–I have also been in touch with Chad and others, reminiscing on the early days on the coast. I have a faint memory of you, and sure if I saw a photo that would clinch it. By the way–I was in Kansas City in December–my publisher is Andrews McMeel and they are down town–man, it was cold, cold, and snowy. My editor took me to a wonderful little place outside of town–in kind of a funky but cool neighborhood–it was a cafe that serves all organic and local foods. I loved it.
Well–be well, and keep in touch. Warmly, Nani
Nani,
FYI: the Ventana Natural Food store was on the other side of the parking lot behind the deli and store. If you were facing the Ventana Office it was to the left of it. The office was once a house when the Post Restaurant was still there.
Nani – Just saw this post. Ditto to what James said!
James – Thanks for the memory. I remember the natural food store at the Ventana. We were living up on the “Ventana Trailer Flat” at the time. Crile was working in what was then the Deli and store.
We did have some amazing time at Kim’s did we not?
Arlene
Jim, very interesting; just now found this…remember well visiting you in the barn up on the hill above the fog with Doug on our way to S.F. and my dog Smoke who didn’t want to stay off the cliffs when we hiked down. My favorite Big Sur memory is Esalen at night when the “locals” could walk in. My early days at RLS Pebble Beach 17 mile, walking and hitchiking…those were some great days!
Believe, Henrik at one time told me Maiden died when he fell off the roof at Timbercove up the coast some…
Your place is obviously cool…but the last time we were there Lolly’s chicken was just under 30 bucks and the place was over-run with yoyos and dweebs from Pebble Beach in their dorky blazers…hardly the guys with the guitars and girls dancing around the fire crowd…haven’t been back since…
http://www.nakedauthors.com/uploaded_images/steve_mcqueen-726063.jpg
[...] The Poetry of Place Nepenthe Unique Architecture my nepenthe Posted by root 19 minutes ago (http://mynepenthebook.com) My editor took me to a wonderful little place outside of town in kind of a funky but reply to this comment powered by wordpress and plainscape theme Discuss | Bury | News | The Poetry of Place Nepenthe Unique Architecture my nepenthe [...]
[...] The Poetry of Place Nepenthe Unique Architecture my nepenthe Posted by root 19 minutes ago (http://mynepenthebook.com) Brick fireplace all of it using native and mostly local materials funky but reply to this comment powered by wordpress and plainscape theme discuss Discuss | Bury | News | The Poetry of Place Nepenthe Unique Architecture my nepenthe [...]
[...] by the vineyard and family (and worthy of a forthcoming post), I presented on Nepenthe’s architecture, showing never before seen images of its inception taken by artist Marion Seawell in 1948. Back [...]
Lovely Monday morning in Santa Fe
FOOD FOR THOUGHT: What do I make with all that olive oil and herb marinated feta I made a few days ago. How many more hours am I going to have to spend on the internet trying to source the Pajarero figs from Spain. Can’t wait to speak to the new spirit distiller to see about using his whiskey and brandy in my chocolates. Start the maceration process for my new batch of cacao liqueur. Tomatoes are coming, eggplants are here, what to make??? How many tomatoes can one person eat. How many question marks can one person use in a paragraph? A cup of coffee and a bowl oatmeal.
This started with my thinking of an old friend from Big Sur, Jack Overholt…..
Missing the ocean! Solis
Solis, I love this spontaneous post on my blog…sorry I didn’t respond right away. You and I have to get together when you are out this way…whisky, chocolates, figs…and tomatoes, oh my!!! let’s talk soon ok..x