Big Sur Views

Heading down the coast for my son Trevor’s birthday on Tuesday turned out to be more of an adventure than usual. When I arrived to Big Sur the road had just closed north of the State Park due to a slide. No one knew what was going on, even the Caltrans worker didn’t know anything for sure. All she said is the “bridge is out,” which seemed incredulous to me. As it turned out, a wall of water starting above the park lodging, came down like a wide, fast moving river, flooding the parking lot, and pushing the few cars that were there through the log fence and onto the highway, at least one of them jamming under the bridge and destabilizing it. It was a mess.

Meanwhile, my cellphone kept ringing, and next thing I knew I was caravanning over the mountain to home, running into old friends along the way–a flow of locals only–and landing at the restaurant just an hour over schedule. The 20 to 30 minute drive was an incredible peek into the wilds of Big Sur and to the countryside I love–big sweeping valley lands below cresting ridgetops with incredible views both south and east, and as the road descends, overlooking the beach, wildflowers blooming all around.  It was one of those moments where I feel so deeply connected to my roots, revering not only the beauty of Big Sur, but the beauty and resilience of of the community, the people who hold forth during the hardest times, sharing resources, swapping stories, and coming together around the table, whether at home, at Nepenthe, or other local establishments, time and again.

The rest of my family coming from town, arrived an hour later and there was wonderful camaraderie among all, with surprise guests showing up to celebrate, and friends we had just passed on the road gathering around the bar or nearby tables. This is what happens in the Sur. This is what happens at Nepenthe. The restaurant has always been a community gathering place, like the bohemian cafe life of another era, cultivating a kind of bonhomie, and it remains so.