A Deviled Easter
When we were growing up at Nepenthe we spent the day before the Easter holiday decorating eggs, not a mere dozen, but several flats of them in one sitting. We would gather around my grandmother’s sturdy family table in the kitchen above the restaurant, water tumblers filled with bright inky colors for dipping our boiled eggs into. Sometimes we boiled onion skins with a splash of vinegar to achieve that natural brown color (the same one you get when you purchase brown eggs), or used beet skins for a rich purple hue; we might press flowers and leaves onto the eggs before dipping so that they left their own mark, or occasionally, draw on them with waxy crayons before plunging them into the pastel blues, pinks, oranges and greens. Other times we didn’t even boil the eggs but instead pricked them with a pin, blowing out the centers until our cheeks hurt to make delicate, confetti eggs. Whatever it might be, we always had a grand time. The Nepenthe family kitchen played host to whatever our interest at the time; it was the place where all the kids gathered for games, or after school for cinnamon toast; it was my grandmother’s private kitchen as well as where meals were served twice daily to the restaurant staff. On Easter, the family kitchen cook inevitably made a tray of deviled eggs, quickly gobbled up, which reminds me of a one time restaurant specialty–deviled egg sandwiches. I tried it again recently (for the book), and was hooked, making it several days in a row. Was it the memory of it, or just that it was plain good? You be the judge.
Deviled Egg Sandwiches
Nepenthe served Deviled Egg sandwiches when it first opened for lunch in the 1950s. They charged $.10 extra to have toasted bread, which takes this sandwich from ho-hum to divine. I make it on hearty grain bread, but it was more likely that my grandmother served it on caraway rye or German black bread.
Serves 2
2 eggs, hardboiled and cooled
1 heaping tablespoon mayonnaise
Heaping ¼ tsp Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons minced white onion
1 teaspoon finely chopped chives
Dash Worcestershire sauce
Pinch of salt and white pepper
4 slices wheat bread, toasted
4 lettuce leaves, green leaf or butter lettuce
1 ripe Beefsteak tomato, thickly sliced
Peel and mash the eggs, using a fork, with the mayonnaise in a small bowl. Stir in the mustard, onion, chives, Worcestershire and the salt and pepper.
Divide between 2 pieces of toasted bread. Drape with a lettuce leaf, and top with another slice of bread. Cut in half on the diagonal. Serve with sliced tomatoes sprinkled with salt, and a twist of black pepper.
I was the “upstairs cook” for several years, in Lolly’s kitchen. It was after I had my son, Benjamin and I was able to bring him to work with me sometimes. There were 88 employees at that time, around 1973-74. Many times I made huge bowls of Lolly’s egg salad for the crew. I was always amazed what a difference that little bit of Worcestershire sauce made! What a great place that kitchen was for the kids. A magical world of crafts and sunshine, playmates and good food in abundance. The help sitting at the long table as their breaks allowed, joining in to conversation or activities while they waited or ate. I remember when Kaffe taught us to make angels out of paper bags and paper towels soaked in flour, salt and water. I had mine for many years. I remember Bob Overholt rescuing me from “losing it” with Paul White over something, stupid probably, early one morning in the kitchen!! I remember learning to make omelets with a wok from Robin Wilson who took over the kitchen while I had surgery. The help would come up on their break and choose their ingredients and we would make them each a personalized omelet. Working in the upstairs kitchen was a great job. Watching Winona, Thyme, Ali, Cap, Nani, Chad, Jardin, Kirk and Erin and my son Ben as well as many other kids flourish there in the kitchen, the living room, the terrace and all the other magical places there were for the children at that time is such a priceless memory. I love to think of the little cubby in the living room with all the old classic Golden Books. I remember spending a winter sitting on the big bed next to the fireplace, crocheting a huge coverlet while caring for Leal while Bobbie recovered from her broken legs. Lolly was usually there too and we got quite close. Gosh so many people come to mind as I am writing this and sadly I don’t think I can make it to the 60th to revisit the bonds that developed between the family and the employees during those very special years…the early 60′s through the mid 70′s for me. I know some of you reading this will never forget the famous response from Millie to Willy’s call from the grill…”I be dere”!!! Well, Nani thanks for stirring things up and I hope you all have a grand time together at the 60th.
Was it Robert Wilson??? Robin doesn’t sound right as I am rereading this.?
Rita, you have such wonderful memories and have captured the essence of the family kitchen and those years so perfectly.
Thank you too, for your remembrances, and yes, it was Robin Wilson (Robert, or Bob was her husband).
Well then it was Robert who I was speaking of who took over for me in the kitchen, not Robin who later became his wife. He was unmarried at the time.
Great story nani! We just spent the day at Helen’s – lots of friends and family and good food, fewer little kids than in OUR day – - – green grass, blue swimming pool, cool breezes, barking dogs, platters of fruit salad and cabbage salad and sticky buns and chocolate cupckaes and bread and cheese and and and
Tara kept saying, “don’t stop eating!” as there was so much food.
We left early to take Emily into CV for her ride down to SB – - – home now, pooped! Can’t wait to try this recipe!
xxoo